Rain, etc.

A melancholy Monday rain that promises to be around all day.  Fine.  We’ll just go with that.  It’s good to let go and embrace it.  On days like this my attention turns from a preoccupation with the ocean to the Hammock behind the house.  No, not the kind you lie in, the flora kind, perhaps unique to Florida, a stand of hardwoods, palmettos, and palms; no pines. There is a section of Flagler county to our north on A1A called The Hammock, where this phenomenon can be experienced in a natural abundance, but our small one stands alone in this part of Skinny Island, the rest having been clear-cut for building years ago.  On rainy days it takes on a special character, the trunks of the Florida Bays and oaks glistening black, the palms and palmettos quietly rustling. It isn’t big– maybe a hundred by a hundred feet– but it seems bigger because standing just behind the house you can’t see the back or side fences for all the vegetation.  Maybe a little local geography will help the picture.

In the natural state of terrain on the seaward side of these barrier islands there is, of course, the beach, the width of which is determined by tides and storms, which can either take away sand, or build it up.  After the hurricanes of ’04 there was a twelve-foot vertical drop at the dune vegetation line, resulting in the ocean being much closer in than normal for quite some time.  It has gradually filled back in so we have a beach nearly wide as it was before.  Then there is the first dune, a buffer really, on which typically sea oats, beach sunflowers, cactus and palmettos flourish. Continuing westward, what naturally occurs then is usually a trough, and then another dune.  Highway A1A was built in what would have been the trough, so you can’t see it anymore.  One of the only places I know to really see the natural state is at Canaveral Seashore, and in a few places on Amelia Island.  Our house was built into the second dune from the ocean, and you can see the natural terrain very well, as the dune falls off a good twelve feet behind the house, and the hammock begins.  I built a small deck at the top behind the house, then descending steps, then a larger deck some eight feet down, the western side of which is still five feet off the ground. Our three-year old grandson loves it back here.  He calls it The Jungle, and can’t get enough of it.  I have cleared a fifteen by twenty-foot section on the north side for a garden, a project which, other than upkeep on the house, has proved to be the most challenging.  I’ll have much more to say about the garden another time, the soil and salt issues.  For now though, in this blessing rain, the parsley, cilantro, dill, oregano, rosemary, mint, basil, and lettuce I have managed to coax along are doing beautifully, rich and luminescent.  I’m hoping to have a breakthrough with vegetables this spring with some new methods. Planting is just a couple of weeks off.

Wet Hammock

Wish I could put in the sound, too.  Gonna be a great nap today.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Elegy for a Morning Ritual

Passing Rain

Rain overnight.  Woke to soothing sound of dripping eaves.  All rain collection units filled now, water we will use for plants through the dry times.  One lone fisherman on the beach, working with a headlamp in the amber chill.  I will wet a line when the water gets above sixty degrees.  The guys you see out here now are all snow birds, for whom this weather is balmy.  It’s not.  I know it and the fish know it.

Managed an early run on the beach in spite of aching knees.  Saw many dead starfish; some immature Laughing Gulls; a substantial gang of Gray Gulls with a single Skimmer in their midst, looking lost.  Rolls of somehow comforting Payne’s Gray clouds, deepening in hue miles out where the rain still fell.

***

And now to the business at hand.  This is a bit like writing your own obituary; there’s no stiff yet, but there are large chunks of memory now inaccessible, and you’re starting to smell a little, so you make an effort to condense your life down to a few paragraphs, so your family, in their bottomless grief, won’t get it all wrong when you’re gone.  With that literary license in hand, I want to talk about newspapers, an elegy, if you will, somewhat premature, perhaps, but not by much.

I love newspapers.  I have a genetic predisposition to newspapers.  My great-grandfather was an early editor of the Tampa Tribune, in the city in which I was born.  He left a remarkable account of late 19th century Tampa in a series of remembrances he wrote and published in the paper late in life.  I didn’t know all that as a child, of course, and he was long dead by the time I was born, but I do remember my grandfather reading the morning Tribune in the extraordinary luminescence of the sun porch of their house on Watrous Avenue.  He read every page of every section in absolute silence and concentration.  In the evening, before supper, he read the Tampa Daily Times, which published every afternoon until 1958, when it was bought out by the Tribune.  Two daily newspapers, delivered to the door.  Amazing.

We had the Tribune delivered to our house as well, but not the Times, as I remember.  On Sundays there was a local radio program featuring a man who read the Trib comics aloud while you followed along.  Imagine that.

I have tried to read newspapers everywhere I’ve lived, and as my respect for the craft of news writing deepened, some newspaper writers have crept into my personal Pantheon of literary heroes.  Chief among those is one Herb Caen, who wrote a daily column– I said daily– for The San Francisco Chronicle from 1938 until 1996.  It was, and is, some of the best writing anywhere, particularly given how little turnaround there was for each piece, a penetrating and lovingly wrought portrait of the beautiful, grand, mundane and ugly elements of one of the world’s great cities.  Along the way Caen had considerable influence on culture and language, coining the term “beatnik,” and popularizing the term “hippie,” neither of which could have come from anywhere other than San Francisco.  I was fortunate to have lived in San Francisco near the end of Mr. Caen’s long career, and count among my greatest experiences reading his column over a cup or two of cappuccino in Malvina’s on Washington Square, before trudging back up Union Street, both humbled and inspired, to wrestle with my own imagery.

All of which leads us to the practice of a morning ritual here on the skinny island.  Rising before the sun each day, my wife and I adhere to this practice with little variation.  Whomever makes it to the little galley kitchen first starts the coffee, and feeds Pico, the inside cat.  (More on Pico in a later posting; there is some contention over how he spells his name.)  Then, one or the other of us will take food outside for Melba, the outside cat, and pick up the News-Journal, our local paper.

The coffee now ready, we settle into side by side chairs separated by a small table, and divide the paper.  My wife almost always begins with the main section, while I start in sports, moving quickly through Local and Accent, in that order, finishing those before she has completed the main.  More often than not, after completing his morning business in the litter box, the concrete evidence of which will later be dispatched in the paper’s plastic delivery bag, Pico will climb up on the table between us for a head scratch while I await the rest of the paper.

That’s it; nothing earth-shaking, really, just another thing mostly older people do the rest of the world can properly do without.  I get that, and though I personally lament the demise of newspapers around the country, (ours survives, but shrinks almost weekly,) the cutting of staffs and bureaus, the condensation of much of what remains into glib flashes and bad writing, I also understand the inevitability of change.  Perhaps unbelievably to some, I am learning to embrace social networking, and clearly have leapt feet first into blogging.  Lamenting change is generational; we all do it.  The problem, I think, lies not in lamenting change, but in finding it evil.  They are not the same.  Fast-paced technology and newspapers are not mutually exclusive, but there is only so much money and attention to go around.

I like holding a newspaper.  When you’re done you can wrap mullet in it, line a puppy box, or put it down for a drop cloth when painting.  Newspapers are compostable.  So, I will not read a newspaper on-line, not just yet.  And anyway, it will probably work out that newspapers will finally disappear for good about the time us codgers do.  That is fitting.  In the meantime, I have a morning ritual I want to keep, a lamentable loss, when it occurs, and this is an elegy.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Whale Watchers, etc.

Sunrise, 2/5/11

A stunning sunrise this morning, (pictured at right,) the ocean silver beneath and rolling a good swell, brushed by gentle south-southwest winds.  The tide being in we took our morning walk along the sidewalk of A1A instead of the beach.

A half-mile north there is an old WWII era submarine observation tower which was refurbished by the county several years ago.  It is just a boxy room about twenty feet up, supported by four large wooden pillars and, to discourage all hooligans, and me, no access.  It is the last of apparently quite a few of these structures set up along the coast during the war and manned by civilians to keep a watch out for German subs.  Anyway, it’s something of a landmark along this part of Skinny Island, and a meeting place for fishermen and other beach users.  In January and February, it is also the morning headquarters for the Whale Watchers.  These are volunteers trained to look for Wright Whales, migrating from colder to warmer waters this time of year, frequently with young calves in tow.  In December a call goes out in the newspaper for potential volunteers to meet on a given date, typically at the library, where a three-hour training will ensue.  Every year I threaten to go in for the training, and every year I back out, because it would mean I would have to interact with others, something long distasteful, that has more recently become something of a phobia.  Consequently, every year I conduct my own Wright Whale search and count which, while perhaps less organized, is just as thorough, since I am almost always looking at the ocean.  I have seen three whales in the past two years, last year’s sighting a large solitary beast quite close in.  Regrettably, caught up in the moment, I did not take pictures.  To date there have been no close-in sightings in this area, but several offshore by boats.  One was found tangled in rope and line, and a great effort was made to free her, including sedating her at one point, a first.  Most of the line was successfully removed, but just two days ago she was found dead out off Flagler Beach, some rope still entangled, and apparently the victim of shark attacks.

This year’s volunteers are out every morning at the sub tower rain or shine, coffee and binoculars in hand, and this morning was no exception.  In passing there seemed to be a lot of talking.  They would not welcome me in their group because I would insist on silently scanning the horizon for whatever time period is customary, having little or nothing to say.  It is best I don’t volunteer, but next year I will again feel the tug.  It is my special curse: a need to be part of doing something good; coupled with a disdain for social interaction.

Again, everything that happens here is more or less seasonally based.  In winter the big thing are the whales; beginning in May and running through the end of August is turtle season, which we will discuss at that time; and of course June through November is storm season, when we keep a watch out for hurricanes.  In March the mullet run, both fingerling and adult, when one cast of the net from the beach can fully stock a smoker; and following the mullet, the bluefish.  In May giant Manta Rays can be seen leaping from the water, both near shore and way out; and throughout the warmer months dolphin are cruising, leaping and body surfing.

But not everything of interest has a season.  One April morning I went down to the beach before sunrise to check the surf and saw something down near the waterline that in the dim light I first took to be a beached dolphin.  Twenty yards away though, I could see it was a man, on his back, totally nude.  On closer inspection I could see he was clearly dead, and had been in the water a long time.  I slowly walked around the body.  His face was featureless; no eyes, the lips, ears, and nose bloated to grotesque proportions; the whole body, in fact bloated with skin and tissue sluffing off the arms, legs, and torso.  Small crabs emerged from beneath the neck.  No identification, just a metal beaded chain around his neck, on which hung a small woman’s ring.  One of the regular early beach walkers joined me then, and volunteered to go up and make a call.  I waited with the body, crouching some distance away, and invented one scenario after another for its presence there on my beach.  In ten minutes I saw the beach patrol truck approaching from the south, coming on the sand, its lights flashing, but no siren.  Clearly no need.  Then came deputy sherriffs, and ultimately, the medical examiner.  It was after ten o’clock before they finally took him away.  It was both disconcerting and magical at the same time; the sea giving up its dead.  There was mention of the find in the paper the next day, but never anything after, so I never knew who he was, or what had happened.  For several days though, quite irrationally, I was fearful of pulling back the shower curtain, but did it numerous times a day, anyway, just to be sure.

Posted in The Beach | Leave a comment

This Old House, Etc.

This house was built in 1949, which makes it almost as ancient as me.  I like that.  I like old houses, old jeans, old guitars, old surfboards.  Only one of the four houses in which we’ve lived was new, and I never felt right there.  Our first house was like this one: small, well-built, lacking all pretense, but full of character.  I believe, like with old musical instruments, old houses are imbued with energy, some of it from people, some of it innate; something time modulates and shapes.  It is comfortable being here. I know this house and this house knows me.

Increasingly, I am intrigued with how it must have been out here on Skinny Island when this place was built.  There can’t have been much here.  The place just to the south, another of the few single-family structures along this stretch of iconic old highway A1A, was built a year earlier, in 1948, but the large majority of the houses lining the numerous streets running perpendicular to the ocean date from the sixties and seventies, and the condo to our north from the early eighties.  I like to think most of this area was like what is preserved in the North Peninsula State Recreation Area, three miles north, just low dune, palmetto, and scrub, home to gopher tortoise, rattlesnakes, dune mice, and Scrub Jays.  For a while anyway, it was old Florida, and these two side by side houses were isolated in that natural setting.  Remarkable.  Traffic on A1A couldn’t have been bad.  We’ve seen it go from light to nearly constant in the fifteen years we’ve been here.  I like to think about how quiet it must have been.

We did a few upgrades to the place on moving in, but fundamentally, it’s solid as a rock, concrete block on a super-thick slab. The ceiling joists and rafters are what they called Dade Pine, essentially heart pine, very dense and virtually impervious to insects and rot.  There are plenty of windows, offering a variety of views of the ocean, all double-hung casements, and while somewhat drafty, there’s that wonderful ripply effect in the old glass, and when everything’s closed down tight, like now, you can’t hear or feel the wind at all.  From December through March it can be very windy, out of the north and northeast, with an occasional real nor’easter raging for days, but the rest of the year we open everything up and the light, easterly sea breezes keep us cool.  The bunker, as we affectionately call it, has endured more than sixty years of harsh weather, salt air, and who knows how many storms.  In the hurricane season of 2004, when three storms passed within a few miles, we lost a few shingles and some soffett, while the condo next door and the house to the south both sustained significant damage.  I stayed here through two of the three storms and, while there were some tense moments, like when the wind threatened to blow down the bolted front door, it was an exhilarating, wonderful experience, and I never felt unsafe.  I think it’s got a good many more years left in it.

***

Uniformly gray today; you can’t see the ocean horizon.  The only break in color the white foam of 3-5 foot seas breaking.  Wind predicted to shift from north to southeast, which will warm things up a bit, but it hasn’t happened yet.  I love hearing people say there aren’t any seasonal changes in Florida.  That’s absurd.  The changes are profound, if not extreme.  Anyway, the ocean dictates everything here, and it’s never the same one day to the next.  You are in it here; it seeps in over time.

Posted in The House | 3 Comments

Hello world!

 

A cloudy, raw day on Skinny Island today, friends.  Watch this spot for semi-regular reports and observations of the natives.

 

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment