In the Garden

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Hope springs eternal, I guess.  Inspired by the spontaneous appearance of several lettuce plants down in the garden, we are going to give the spring garden another try.  We let last year’s lettuce crop go to seed, and this appears to be the result.  Can’t ignore that kind of sign.  I had become more or less at peace with one of my few regrets in this long, wild ride, that I would never again have the kind of vegetable garden I’ve always wanted, reluctantly accepting, due to the excuses I will elaborate, that things were out of my control.  But the sprouting of this lettuce changes everything.  It is yet another of the many curves thrown when you’re looking for a fastball, and I’m still working on hitting the curve.  You have to stand in there, choke up, relax, and wait.  Sorry for the baseball metaphor in a gardening piece, but it fits.

We had a thriving garden once.  When we were very young, in Tallahassee, our first house, very similar to The Little Hacienda.  We cleared a plot and planted, adding nothing but some chicken poop from the five hens we had, and it produced beyond our expectations.  We also had a pear tree and two pecans, so I’m still not sure why we left.  Anyway, since settling here, we’ve tried almost every year.  We cleared another plot down in the hammock behind the house, fenced it and put in a compost pit.  But we sit on top of an old sand dune, and the soil, though it has been fed behind the house by many years of bay tree leaf droppings, is still predominately sand and silicone.  We’ve built it up over the years, built raised beds, but you can’t get rid of the silicone.  And then there’s the salt air. I wouldn’t trade the proximity to the ocean for anything, but it’s not conducive to growing vegetables.  And then, related to all the above, we have problems with pollination.  We get good, strong plants, and buds, but they don’t pollinate and fruit. Not real sure why.

So, we’re at it again.  Because of the appearance of the lettuce.  I put in more this morning, plus some onions, kale, cilantro, basil, and Swiss chard.  We’ll see.

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The Copper(tone) Gate & So It Goes

There’s one bike rider among the usual, and shrinking, band of morning beach walkers.  A friendly chap, he always says good morning, and he scared the bejesus out of me this morning with his greeting as he approached from behind, because I didn’t hear him coming.  He can’t beach ride every morning, of course, because you can only negotiate a bike, even with fat tires, through our sand at or near low tide, which we’ve had through the weekend and into the first of this week.  But Ive been seeing him for years, another of the crew of regulars whose name or story I do not know.  For a long time he pedaled alongside a woman, his wife, I am assuming, who was a runner.  Then, five years ago or more he was riding by himself and we haven’t seen her since.  Opens the door to many possibilities, but we just don’t know.  One of the many mysteries I prefer to keep as mysteries about the lives of these beach folk.  It’s the story-teller in me.

One noticeable characteristic of this guy, however, is that he always presents with the scent of sunblock, classic Coppertone, to be specific.  It is unmistakable; there’s no other scent like it, and that’s what this is about.  When he passes and I get a whiff, I’m transported through a portal to a carefree, happy time.  Smells are evocative and provocative, you know, and are deeply associated with memories.  For me this scent evokes memories of my youth with friends on the Gulf coast, St. Theresa, Alligator Point, Panama City, a wonderful time with everything still out ahead of us.  Patchouli is another scent that brings a rush of good memories, but of a different time, place, and circumstances.  And oddly, even diesel fumes evoke the streets of wonderful cities we’ve enjoyed.

***

I wrote some time back about the submarine look-out tower on the beach, and the guy who lived in the sheltered space beneath the deck below it.  I saw him this morning, sitting on the steps of a dune walkover a half-mile further south, his bike leaning on the railing beside him.  I thought it a bit odd he was there and not in his usual place.  On the way back home I saw why.  I hadn’t seen it on my passing of the look-out in the pre-sun light, but there it was.  There were new steps rising from the beach, and the under space was now sheathed all around in new wood.  No access now.

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Time to move on.  And so it goes.

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Turtles & Birds

We have been concerned with recent reports that there has been a precipitous decline in birds in our area.  We can certainly attest to that reality.  There are far fewer birds, either permanent residents or migratory, in the trees behind The Little Hacienda since we’ve been here. We have a couple of doves now, but nothing else.  Usually we have a huge influx of Gackles this time of year, but none yet.  Hoping our Cardinals return in February, but who knows.

Same on the beach.  In the winter months we usually see huge flocks of migratory birds- Willets, Black-bellied Plover, Ruddy Turnstones, other Plover, large colonies of different gulls. and my favorite, Black Skimmers- I was bemoaning the lack of birds this morning on my beach walk, when I saw a small flight of Skimmers.  Maybe they’re just late in arriving.  Skimmers are so cool, a medium-bodied bird with an enormous wing-span and a beautiful, long beak and an underbite.  They fly low over the surf and scoop micro-food from the water with their lower beak.  Very impressive.

But there is interesting news.

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Some of our walking friends found this on the beach recently, and were unsure what it was.  On first look it appears to be plastic trash, but on closer examination you can see it is bone.

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I thought it might be something turtle, and sure enough, with a little research, it appears to us to be a Loggerhead turtle rib! See below.  You can see the sets of ribs matching this piece.  Who knew Loggerheads had ribs?

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Save the turtles, and the birds!

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Watch Out!

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This is by far the most photographed object on our beach.  It’s a WWII era watch tower, erected in 1942, one of around 15,000 such structures built on the U.S. coastline to keep an eye out for German shipping activity, or invasion, and one of the only ones still standing.  Several German spies actually did make it ashore near Ponte Vedra in February of 1942, but they were quickly captured before they could do any damage.  The threat was real.  Our tower was in pretty bad shape when we moved here, but the County stepped up and refurbished it in 2003.  It stands on the east side of A1A, about a half-mile south of The Little Hacienda, and is used as a reference by just about everybody who lives up here.  People say, “So and so is about a quarter-mile south of the submarine tower.”  Or, “I’ll meet you at the watchtower, and we’ll go from there.”  Or, “There’s a cool sand pyramid on the beach right by the tower.” Walkers in both directions use it as a turnaround point.  It makes a statement.  You’re supposed to do something there, even if it’s just to stop and look at the ocean.  People in cars pull off all the time to take photos.  Whale Watchers post there on the deck in January and February, scanning the ocean with binoculars for Right whales.  A local attorney shot himself in his car there some years ago.  There used to be a large RV park across the road, but it’s been gone for more than twenty years.  Some developer put in a half-mile oval road, with utilities, right after the RV park went under, but nothing was built there until just recently.  Just one house, so far.  We’ll see.

A homeless guy has lived under the tower for at least three years, that I know of.  You see him peddling off toward town on his bike nearly every morning.  I say good morning, but he just nods.  There’s no access up into the rather roomy tower enclosure, so he lives under the deck below.  That would drive me crazy.  I’d figure out a way to get up there.  I mean, it’s right there, with a stunning view.  Maybe he does, though he’d have to be a pretty good pole climber.  Great place for a chilled martini.  When the development gets going he’ll have to move on.  They’ll insist.

I checked into building a similar thing here on our dune– I figure I could have it up and finished in about two weeks after somebody dropped in the poles for me– but the Man said no.  Riparian rights apparently do not extend to Happy Hour towers, no matter how visually appealing they might be.

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Of Mice and Raccoons

We’re having a little mouse issue right now at The Little Hacienda.   It’s undoubtedly due to the change in the weather, the little guys naturally seeking a nice warm place to ride out the Florida winter.  Of course, when it hits 80 again in a few days, that could prove to be a poor decision.  We first heard a little something in the attic about a week ago and, having had a similar experience some fifteen years ago, knew how to proceed.  First was to find the means of entry.  I found a small hole in the facia on the south side of the house, which I plugged.  Unable to find our old live trap, we bought a new one.

These are little dune mice, not big hulking city things.  They live, naturally, in the dunes, and occasionally make their way across A1A to our little sanctuary, which accounts for the healthy snake population we sustain.  They are tiny, about 4 inches long, (minus the tail), dark brown, and quite cute.  Just not in the attic.  The remedy is to set a live trap up in the attic, baited with either cheese or peanut butter.  Turns out this iteration prefers cheese.  We trapped one a couple days after setting out the trap.  We were having coffee and reading the paper when we heard the trap engage, then a frantic clanging as the little fellow tried to escape.  Our method of disposal is relocation.  We take them up the road to the North Peninsula State Recreation Area, and release.  We are not fond of family separation, but in this case, given their proclivity for reproduction, a period of separation will probably do them, and us, a world of good.

Which is what I did.  Hoping that was it, we nevertheless re-baited the trap and put it back in the attic.  Sure enough, a day later we heard footsteps. Nothing for a couple days, and then last night we heard the cage engage again.  I waited until morning to retrieve the trap, when I should have gone up right away.  I discovered the little guy had died!  No trauma; the trap is large enough to accommodate a hefty raccoon.  I believe he died of fright, and we feel terrible about it.  I took him back over to the dune, said a few words, and placed him down in the palmettos.  Later that same day, today, I heard the tell-tale ruckus, and on investigating, found we had caught another of the little interlopers.  This one I transported up the beach and let him out across from a beach bar at happy hour. He scampered in the other direction, down the dune.

But the whole thing brings to mind another incident, speaking of raccoons.  We have a little get-away house over on the west side of the state, making us truly bi-coastal.  How we acquired, and have held what we lovingly call The Little Hacienda West, or TLHW, for 17 years without renting it out or actually living in it is a story for another blog, so we’ll hold off on that for now.  The fact is we had a family of raccoons, a mom and two babies, take up residence in that attic several years ago.  I happened to be there by myself for a bit, and was naturally tasked with getting them out.  My research into the matter told me that light and loud sound would drive them out.  As luck would have it I had a shop light for some other work I was doing there, and a pair of giant HED speakers.  And again, there’s a subject for another blog.  Whatever happened to big speakers?  Everything is miniaturized now, and virtually useless.  If it doesn’t rattle the walls and loosen plaster, what good is it?

Anyway, I put the light up in the attic and then lugged one of the big speakers up.  I turned the connected radio to a classic rock station, and let loose with some Zeppelin.  Nothing.  I could see three pair of beady little eyes staring back at me from the recesses of the attic.  Next up was Metallica.  Surely that would get them moving.  Long story short, they didn’t budge for any music I tried.  I then had a sinister idea, and switched from FM to AM, searched for a few minutes and stumbled on Rush Limbaugh.  After ten minutes of Rush, mama was herding the youngsters out the way they’d come in, an impossibly small opening next to the electric meter on the wall of the shed out back.  Draw your own conclusions.  I’m not saying another word.

And we spotted this guy sliding down a palm a few evenings ago back at The Little Hacienda.  I think he (she) may have been scoping out a warm attic.  All this because we have a relatively unique habitat here, for a residence, anyway.  Stay tuned for blogs on our wonderful nearby parks, Bicentennial, a mile south, and North Peninsula, 2 miles north.

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Yo-Yo Weather & Birding

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We have yo-yo weather here in Florida.  That means it can be hot one day and cold the next.  Yesterday morning I walked the beach in shorts, and wore them all day.  This morning it was watch cap, hoodie and wool socks, temp in the 40s.  This time of year the changes can last for days or flip in 24 hours.  This cold snap, (it’s cold to us natives, anyway) is forecast to last several days, before we see 70s again, with 80s again in about a week.  That’s about as long as we can stand it without seeking some remedy– travel, illicit excitement, food, excessive alcohol, resurrection– but one way or another we always make it.

The migratory birds we get every winter on the beach are affected too.  We haven’t seen near as many as would usually this time of year.  Part of that is due to the crazy weather they’ve been having way north, where our migratories hail from, but I think our topsy-turvy weather has an effect, too.  We should have quite a lot of willets, sandpipers, terns, plover and black skimmers, but there are only scattered willet, some gulls, and a few black-bellied plover.  I came across this little gathering of sanderling, pictured above, all lit up by the just risen sun.  They are wonderful to watch, digging in the sand for small crustaceans, their little beaks working like sewing machine needles.  They are very skittish, and when you approach, they fly off en-masse, circle out over the water and land as a group either ahead or behind.  Most of our migratory species winter in South America, and because it is such a long trip, we have them, groups at a time, as hold-overs, gathering strength for the haul.  They are extraordinarily tough, beautiful creatures.

We have a variety of resident species as well, of course, some of whom like to show off in the front yard.

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Fishing as Meditation

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I went surf fishing for the first time in 2020 this morning.  The weather report promised very mild conditions, temp rising to around 80, with a light wind out of the southwest, and on our morning walk it appeared to be holding true.  Skies were clear, and the sun rose unimpeded.  I decided to take the stuff down to the beach and try my luck, and as I was carrying the last of it, the clouds moved in.  I set the rod holders in the sand, set up chairs to stake out my place, and went back for breakfast at The Little Hacienda.

A little background.  I like to fish alone.  It’s a meditation for me; the sky, the waves, the sun.  There are quite a few old fishermen living nearby, some of whom have been at it for years, and they tend to form little groups of two or three or four on the beach, and talk.  They talk a lot.  I’m not much of a talker; the less said the better.  Silence, long spaces between words, don’t make me uncomfortable.  For them it’s a social event, and that’s fine.  For me it’s a meditation, if I catch something, all the better.  This is going to sound sexist, and I mean no disrespect, but I find those of my gender who talk a lot to be an affront to decorum.

When I took the rods and bait down to the beach after breakfast there were guys camped on either side of my space.  I’m usually able to maintain a safe distance, and send no signals that I’d like to interact, but with their proximity, I was trapped.  Right away, one of them approached as I was baiting up.  I’ve seen him down there for years, and knew he was a seasonal resident from Canada, but I’ve never really talked to him.  Turns out he is an Irishman named Leslie living in Toronto, blessed, of course, with the Gift of Gab. And, a more pleasant fellow you couldn’t find.  We were soon joined by Jerry from Jersey, and he and Leslie fell into a jocular banter full of good-natured ribbing that comes from familiarity.  I held up my end as best I could.  Unfortunately, it appears all fish have left town for the New Year, so there wasn’t even the interruption of a strike to draw me away.

An aside, I guess, is necessary here, because it informs the social nature, in a way, of fishing on Skinny Island.  Contrary to how I grew up fishing, which is to stand with rod in hand, index finger on the line, ready to jerk at the slightest twitch, I discovered several years ago that surf fishing nowadays is done from a comfortable chair, with an occasional glance to your rods set into PVC pipe stuck in the sand.  Because of the freedom this affords, you can set out as many rods as you can carry to the beach, that itself enhanced by gorgeous, fat-tired carts most of these chaps own.  The standard rod array is four, though there is one fellow, a Frenchman, who only appears in summer, who sets out six!  I stick to two.  I can’t keep track of more than that, and it doesn’t seem fair to the fish anyway to wield an arsenal.  Not having to pay actual attention to your rod allows you to sit with your likewise equipped buddies, and chat.  The major drawback to my self-imposed isolation, of course, occurs when I actually have hook-ups on both rods simultaneously.  It’s happened, and requires a singular dexterity to land either, or both, fish.  Since we all use two-hook surf rigs, the problem can be happily compounded.  If the other guys have a multiple hook-up, one of their compatriots springs  into action to save the day.  So there you have it.  Safety in numbers, plus all the latest news and opinion.

But I digress.  I’m not saying I can contemplate a fish onto the hook, but distractions certainly minimize my chances, to say nothing of the wonderful immersion in the experience I seek and enjoy.  That said, none of the six fishermen (16 rods) caught anything during the two hours I was down there, and I must admit to enjoying the conversation with the Irishman.

And while we’re at it, how about visiting my bookshelf @ amazon.com/author/sharrison.

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Bring It!

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We’re Back, with a beautiful start to 2020.  After more than a week of dreary, rainy weather at the end of December, we’re enjoying fantastic weather here on Skinny Island, and pumped to have a great year, with lots of projects.  We don’t make resolutions, but we are inspired by renewal.  We’re healthy, relatively speaking, still moving and thinking clearly, so the rest is gravy.

We had Right Whales off the beach yesterday.  Unfortunately, I missed them, but a beach-walker friend told me this morning he saw them, a female and calf, about two-hundred yards out.  I haven’t seen any in about eight years, but they are a beautiful sight to behold, and very uplifting.  It’s a beach thing.  And I have a new friend, Sully, a rambunctious Golden Retriever puppy, who walks on the beach in the morning with his people.  He moves in fifty different directions at once, and is an absolute joy.

January and February can be a bummer here, but we’ll get through it, and by popular demand, and for our sanity, we’ll try to be more consistent in turning out the Post.  Stay tuned!

 

 

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Why I Love The 10

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Moonrise on The 10.  I think it’s the best stretch of road in the country, and also one of the longest.  I-10 runs from Jacksonville to L.A., and at last count, we’ve driven it, one way or the other, five times, with another three to and from Texas.  Heading west you get into good country right out of Jacksonville, and except for Tallahassee, you don’t hit much traffic until New Orleans.  If you’re smart, you take the 12 at Slidell, LA, to get you around New Orleans, and then you have to go through Baton Rouge and Lake Charles, but it’s not bad, depending on the time of day, then Houston, which is always bad.  Then there’s a pretty free run to San Antonio, which has gotten way too big since we lived there in the early 70’s.  After that, it’s a crippling, long drive across west Texas to El Paso, unless you give in and just enjoy the scenery.  The land and sky are so immense and beautiful.  I find it deeply moving, and have since I first drove it in 1970.  At Ft. Stockton you can turn south for another hundred miles to Big Bend National Park, out of the way, but that gives it special status.  If you do that, and want to continue west, you have to take little two-lane 118 out of the park to Alpine, where we once spent the night, long ago, passing through Terlingua, which was a ghost town when we passed through in 1970, and where they now have a famous barbecue cook-off, before hooking up again with the 10 and El Paso and Las Cruces, NM.

In years past it was a fun run through beautiful desert from there on, but with the insane growth of Tucson and Phoenix, it’s sometimes a good choice to head north out of Las Cruces on the 25 to pick up the 40 to continue west.  Bust I still like the southern route, despite the ugliness and smog of The Valley of the Sun, although 25 should not be missed.  It is a desolate, mind-bending drive through Indian territory to Albuquerque.  If you stay on the 10 you will eventually hit Blythe, CA, then Joshua Tree National Park, where we had one of our great camping experiences, which included margaritas in the middle of the road, and where, on the western side of the park you gain elevation and can see the Salton Sea and the unmistakable crack of the San Andreas Fault.

After that you’re on your own. The L.A. rich folk desert.  Coachella, Indio, Palm Springs.  At San Bernardino you’d better decide whether you want to go on into L.A, or hook north on the 15 to get out of it.  If you keep going you’ll eventually end up on the Santa Monica Pier, after hours in traffic, and if you take the 15 to Barstow, you can pick up the 40 to Bakersfield and pick up the 5 north.  Good choice, unless you want to see the Hollywood sign, and look at the palm prints at Grumman’s Chinese Theater.  Pretty much a one-time experience.  The 5 takes you up the Central Valley all the way to Washington.  America’s bread basket; almonds, avocados, pistachios, etc.  Not to be missed.  We’ve taken it all the way up into Oregon.

North of San Francisco, if you want to head back from there, you can pick up the 80 through Truckee and Reno to Salt Lake.  Every time we’ve been up there weather set in, requiring chains, so we haven’t done it.  I always wanted to do the 80 on a motorcycle, like my San Francisco friend Chester Chin described, but I guess that’s past.  If I can come back, I’m doing that, on a big BMW.

Coming back on the 10 is even better, for some reason.  I think it has to do with the gradual leaving of openness for the crowdedness of the east.  Not that that’s better, not at all.  It’s about re-emerging into life as it is, after experiencing something greater; the American West.  There’s nothing like it.  There’s the gradual contrast you experience, that sharpens what you’ve just been through, knowing that’s out there.  I’m ready to do it again.

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A Little Then and Now

Our dear friend Frannie Glosson sent us this photo a few days ago, saying she found it in her attic.  Frannie is the wife of my long-time pal and Walter Reed army buddy, Dean Glosson. I say she is the wife, not was, of Dean, though he is deceased too soon, because I know she is.  Anyway, this is a photo of me, taken ca. 1974 in McHenry, Illinois, at Dean’s family farm.  It was so long ago it’s hard to remember the details, but we had taken a trip up there to see them when we were both barely a year out of service.  Amazing what hair you can grow in a year when you’re young.  I remember it as a joyous occasion, full of energy and hope.  We had been through a lot, and we were beginning our lives after service.  I met Dean in basic medic training in San Antonio in late 1969, and we then both attended the Clinical Specialist course there in 1970, an army LPN course.  We lived together off-post, with another amazing person, Pete Young. Pete, a daily farmer from Maine, was in the class ahead of us, and served in Okinawa upon graduation.  Frannie and Barbara came out to an Antonio in the summer of that year and we got apartments a street apart near the base.  It was a wonderful time.  As luck would have it, we both got assigned to Walter Reed in DC upon completion of the course, and both landed on the same ward, a neurosurgical unit.  There’s a lot to be written about that, but that’ll have to wait.  The first year we were there– two newly-wed couples– the Glossons with a new baby, Josh, we lived several miles apart, but in our second year, along with two other couples from our unit, we moved into apartments on Flower Avenue in Takoma Park, MD.  Dean and Frannie lived just across the hall from us on the second floor.  There was lots of music and good times.  We’ve remained close ever since.

Here’s what I want to say about the photo.  It resonates in me in a way I’m not really able to define, but it’s something about the whole trip.  It’s about friends, real friends, love and life.  Something about commitment and staying true to a vision we perhaps idealistically had.  I’m still with, and still in love with, the woman I had married just three years before this photo was taken.  We’ve struggled, but have lived the kind of life life we bought a ticket for.  Compromising as necessary, but holding firm to an idea that was more about grace than it was money.  My friend Dean is gone, but not far away, and he and Frannie lived a life of service.  I can think of no better tribute or way to live.

I am looking at the future in this photo, I think.  The early commitment to art, in some form or another, is there, and regardless of commercial success, that has been my path, my quiet, singular gesture.  I just wish I still had that hair.

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