Following the seat rotation system, we had the front seat, right behind our driver Sergio, and just across the aisle from Luis, for the whole day from Lisbon to Seville.  Great views of the countryside, with Sergio taking us off the Freeways to what is called the “National Roads,” two-laners through real country.  Many large olive groves, black bull ranches, and quaint villages.

Also many cork trees.  In the midst of a large grove, on a skinny two-lane road not far from the Spanish border, we pulled over on the shoulder, got out, and Luis delivered our cork lecture, close-up and hands-on. Only the bark is harvested, and begins only after the tree is 16 years old.  Trunks and the straight sections of lower limbs are stripped, the tree is marked with the date of harvest, and the tree allowed to grow back its bark for 8 years before harvesting again.  They are a lovely, gnarly tree, similar to oaks, with deep green leaves, and an acorn-like seed, that also serves a very special purpose, which Luis described once we were back on the bus.  As we already suspected, and would have confirmed quite concretely back in Madrid, the Spanish and Portuguese love their ham.  Driving by a pig farm, Luis quipped, “You see pigs; I see ham.”  He explained that there are three kinds of ham in Spain, Regular Everyday, Mid-Grade, and High-Grade.  Regular ham comes from pigs fed only grain; Mid-Grade from pigs fed a combination of grain and cork tree acorns; and High-Grade ham comes from pigs fed only cork acorns.  It’s serious business, and all tied in together.  More on ham when we get back to Madrid.

A few miles from the Spanish border we stopped in a beautiful little village for lunch.  We had our breakfast provided sandwiches at a table outside, then took a walk through the village.  Outside a small church with a placard near its door announcing its 150th anniversary, I was approached by an old woman crossing the square who motioned us to go inside.  “Muy Bonito,” she repeated several times.  “Muy Bonito.”  It was.  I thought it the nicest of all the churches and cathedrals we visited, just an elegant, simple, village church serving its purpose.  On leaving, we noticed a stork nest atop the steeple, a sign of good luck.  We walked slowly back to the bus through this sweet village, hearing friendly calls back and forth between the residents, and watched a man drive a horse cart to his front door. It felt like a happy place, and we wondered aloud would it would be like to live there.

On to Seville, and into another great hotel, the Don Paco, near the old city center.  Lovely ground floor room with window opening to lush patio.  There was a bar, outdoor seating, and a pool on the roof, which also afforded a three-sixty view of Seville.  Just time for a shower and dressing for big dinner out, which Luis had been talking about for days.  We loaded the bus, and he took us on a brief driving tour of some of the important sights of Seville.  We stopped before a large but rather unimposing building not far from the Plaza Mayor, and Luis said he had a surprise, to follow him.  We traipsed behind through the doors, passed through a nondescript alcove, and then out onto acres of open park, with lakes, streams, bridges, and impeccable tile work throughout.  The Plaza de Espana, and one of Seville’s main gathering places.  A simply extraordinary place, and far too vast to really see ibn the time we had that evening.  We made plans to return the next day.  Off we went then, and were discharged from the bus in front of Seville’s old bull ring.  A quick look around there, then on to our restaurant, one of Seville’s best Flamenco venues.  Like our Fado dinner in Portugal, we were seated at long tables, with other tour groups, and treated to a fabulous dinner of paella, cod, pork, vegetables, bread, and wine.  The show began midway through the meal, and was fabulous.  Teams of dancers took the stage one after another, then solo performers, accompanied by bass, drums, and Spanish guitar.  Lots of castanets, foot stomping, skirt swirling, and shouts of “Ole!”  Also much wine imbibed again, including exceptional sangria near the end of the show.  Once again, the ride back to the hotel was spirited, with some of the nurses (and Luis) dancing in the aisles.  A bunch of us took to the roof deck with leftover wine we were told to take from the dinner, and a good time was had by all overlooking the night lights of old Seville.  We are striking out on our own tomorrow to explore this wonderful city.